A Perfectly Tough Smoking Jacket

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The Smoking Jacket aka Dinner Jacket aka Tuxedo Jacket…

My client loves a classic smoking jacket (and really, who doesn’t?). For a long time he has dreamed of having one in leather.  So, for everyday wear, I created this toughened up version.

He’s a big guy and while he loves the James Bond Look of a smoking jacket, he is a hardcore NYer.  He also likes the classic rock n roll/biker vibe.  This shows thru in his choice of jewelry and accessories,  big chunky rings –  silver- with a subtle skull motif, and boots.  He’s got a little bit of a tough vibe going on with his style, and he’s in a High End Industry where he’s around people where unique personal presentation is important.

And,  as far as Off-the-Rack… well, it’s not a great fit for his build or  his big personality.

On top of that, he wanted something he could have for years and that would work for him just about every day.  A bespoke jacket is the only answer to that.

He knew he want a grainy textured leather for the body – To me, the texture beautifully echos those classic jacquard tuxedo jackets from the 1950’s that became so popular again as dead stock in the mid 1980’s.  Anyone who was around then remembers those!

I wanted to tie it all together – Leather, Tuxedo, Skulls – so I decided to do that with zipper detailing that’s reminiscent of a classical motorcycle jacket.  And whether you call it a smoking jacket or a dinner jacket – that’s up to you.

I found him a gorgeous grainy, semi-matte deerskin.  Deerskin is a very strong, supple hide.  So, while it’s lighter weight than cowhide, it’s much stronger.

Because it’s hunted and tanned (domestically) in small batches – the finish, in each lot is always different and unique.  These particular skins were wonderfully clean so all the panels could be cut  without horizontal seams to break up the jacket.  This is not always possible in B&T sizes.

The smooth contrast leather is our ever popular Mona Lisa lambskin.  And when he saw the choices of British Cupro jacquard linings I can offer – he immediately found his favorite!  The red two-tone skull pattern. (this particular pattern is available in 5 colors)  It adds a great touch to this jacket.

As with every custom project each client has really specific wants and needs.  In this case – pockets.  Big and strong ones.  More of them too!  So the pockets are made in a tightly woven mid-weight cotton sateen,  which is much stronger than standard pocketing you’d get in any off-the-rack garment.  The black cotton sateen has the added plus of  giving a neat tuxedo like, contrast finish to the lining as well.   The exterior pockets are made with an even heavier weight cotton sateen.  Barring very sharp objects, it’s very unlikely the pockets will give out over the jackets long lifetime.

He was very, very happy with his new smoking jacket and sent us a really nice note.

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