Our Bespoke Process

Having a bespoke garment made is an experience like no other. In a world where “fashion” has been reduced to trend, we create long-lasting, heirloom-worthy pieces that you can wear for a lifetime.  Our bespoke leather clothing is the epitome of slow fashion. Whether your style is classic and practical, or exuberant and flamboyant, we create each piece with your individuality as a touchstone.

1) CONSULTATION:

We can consult with you via, phone, email, or in person at our NYC Atelier.

In-Person Consultations require an appointment and take between 1-2 hours. We like to get a little bit of detail on the scope of the project you are thinking of before we meet you.

During your consultation we will discuss in some detail, the style you desire, the needs you want your new bespoke piece to fulfill – and what will integrate best with your lifestyle and your specific needs and budget.

We will take your measurements and show you a preliminary selection of leathers & linings.

Out of Town? We have been creating bespoke pieces for long-distance clients for over 10 years.  We also offer a hybrid service for those who visit NYC. Just contact us.

2) DESIGN:

The design process can be as collaborative (or not) as you’d like.

Most clients have an idea of what they like that works as a starting point. Often they have specific details they would like to include. They usually have a color preference before they start.

We can work with guidance as nuanced as just the silhouette to design your garment and can suggest options and alternatives to fulfill your vision or create one just for you.

The scope and basis of the design are usually well outlined and defined during this initial consultation. Further fine tuning of the design is worked out during the fitting period.

3) PATTERNMAKING:

Once we have your measurements and the style details in hand, we begin drafting your initial pattern. For our bespoke items, we do not work from templates – each custom piece is developed for one individual, taking into account their measurements, fit preferences, posture, proportion, and how all the details of their custom-made garment will work in unison with their body and needs.

This becomes the basis of everything that follows and is updated with each change and adjustment made during your fittings.

4) FITTING:

Once we have the basis of your style patterned, we create cotton fitting ‘toiles’ in either canvas or muslin, according to the type of garment and leather type your project requires. These fitting toiles are used to check not just the fit on your body, but to fine-tune everything from the proportion of the garment to the style lines and the seam and pocket placement. Nothing is left to chance to create a garment that is truly harmonious with your body and your movement.

On average, anywhere from 1 to 3 fitting toiles may be created to achieve the perfect fit. Some more complex garments or very specialized fit requirements can require additional muslin fittings.

5) CHOOSING THE SKINS

By now you will have made your final leather selection. Our job is to now make sure we get the best of those skins for your project.

Natural Leather hides have variations in color, grain, and normally occurring flaws. There may also be variations in the finishing and even the subtle feel of the skin.

Each skin is hand-chosen – for optimal cleanness, color, and weight for every project.

6) CUTTING & PREPPING :

Cutting is a careful process requiring high concentration and puzzle-solving skills. Especially when dealing with limited edition skins or exotics like Python or Alligator.

Fine Leather is cut, by hand, in a single layer. Shading, weight, and grain are matched carefully throughout the garment. Patterned or exotic leathers are carefully mirrored, to ensure that the scale and pattern of the skins match across the body and work harmoniously within the garment.

Interior construction points are carefully marked and reinforced where required. Leather garments often need various layers of inner construction in addition to linings and all this happens before the actual garment comes to shape.

7) CONSTRUCTION :

The design of a garment will often dictate the construction techniques used in a specific piece. This is part of the beauty of couture. Each detail and technique used is carefully developed with the final results in mind. This begins at the pattern level and is one of the hallmarks of a truly bespoke garment. Every step of the process builds on the foundation of the previous work. And it shows in the final product.

8) FINISHING:

Once completed the finished garment gets its final touches. The hand-sewing of buttons, the application of snaps, or other closures. Or maybe a special hand-finished trim like edge lacing or beading is used. Some leathers may require a final protective treatment. Then each garment is photographed and carefully checked inside and out before the client receives it.

Thank You for Signing Up

Use Code SIGNUPGET10

for 10% off your First Order

 

(cannot be used with other offers)