My client is 6’8″
Obviously, it’s just about impossible for him to purchase anything special off-the-rack. He can’t just see something he likes and ever expect it will fit him properly.
I personally don’t hear the phrase Big and Tall much any more, (I don’t know if that’s cause I’m in NYC or because I am barely 5’1″) but it is definitely a niche that needs a place to get well fitted leather Jackets and coats – I am not talking XL>XXXL type of jackets, but properly cut and fitted to personal proportions.
Honestly, I have no idea where on the Big and Tall Spectrum sizes like XL >XXXL fit but those aren’t jacket sizes. Those are T-Shirt and Sweats sizing.
This is the second piece I’ve made him, the first was this really special coat.
Some months later he saw U2 at the Sphere in Las Vegas and really liked the long casual leather jacket that Bono wore for a good part of the show.
So he came back for another piece. After a couple of quick renderings he settled on the sketch above. Then during fittings we settled on the length that looked and felt right to him – he wanted something more refined with a bit of flash, which is reflected in his leather & lining choices.
The sleeves were streamlined (no buttoned band) and a nice bit of bling was added with the choice of this great rose jacquard Lining in a golden/bronze shade.
I think he’s worn it everyday since he got it! (His wife is also thrilled with it) It’s a real everyday jacket for him and already his go to.
And while it is a big and tall leather jacket – it isn’t outsized, shapeless or big and bulky, it’s most definitely not your standard bomber jacket – it has shape and STYLE.
Right now in works on my table is a pattern for a full leather trench coat I am working on for a gentleman whose 6’4″ with a 52″ chest and a portly build, he’s built very like a lot of the military characters you see in period dramas. It is going to be an imposing piece. And it’s gonna fit and look amazing!
Big and Tall Leather Coats and other B&T pieces I’ve done- These clients range from 6’4″ to 6’8″ and most are 48″ chest or above.
Big and Tall covers a very broad range of body types, not just tall and skinny or those of Viking like proportions. There is a lot to fit and balance properly always requiring multiple Muslin fittings, always more than the usual two I make to fit what would be considered an average body & build. There is more time involved, and more materials involved – from the initial muslin to the leather and lining as well as more time spent building the final piece so for these projects you can expect a 15% – 20% surcharge above my base rates.