This bespoke tailored jacket was created for a customer who is an entrepreneur, producer and philanthropist.
He’s partial to Brioni, but was put off by their price point when he inquired about a bespoke tailored leather jacket. (Well over $10,000.00 apparently.)
Our client’s assistant came to us with the project. He brought with him in a very lightweight, heavily worn piece our client owned from a very high end European designer. It was also a big and tall size that is very difficult to find as OTR anywhere.
The client loved the proportions of the jacket and wanted to emulate it. Overall it was very well made garment, but by the finishing, and the linings in particular, the jacket looked to be made ***elsewhere. Not in Italy.
This is a big reason why many of these large luxury companies won’t do bespoke, it’s because they simply can’t.
We started with finding a gorgeous, super lightweight, mirror finish black lambskin. Fine leather like this creates a few challenges when making a tailored leather jacket.
Over the years, we have developed techniques that work beautifully on these very fine skins. All without the unsightly pic-stitching that traditional tailoring techniques would leave on leather. And every piece is made in NYC, right in our 5th Avenue Atelier.
Two muslins were created to balance the jacket properly and adjust the fit and fine tune the details.
The finished jacket has exterior and interior pockets, hand-guided double stitching, finely bound buttonholes, a double back vent and is lined in a heavy 3-ply silk crepe. It is also super lightweight and wearable year round.
Our client loves it (I believe he retired the original) and is now planning a second jacket in brown!
***This is very common in European designer lines since the labeling laws in Europe allow for just the finishing to be done in the “Country of Origin”. Which means that all they really have to do is sew on the buttons, the label & pack it up to ship, in say, Italy or France. And suddenly, the garment is “Made” in Italy or France. We can’t do that in the US.