Our “Custom-Made” is truly that. Following in the traditions of fine couture and bespoke each individually commissioned garment is exactly that, individual, one-of-a-kind and designed and created expressly for the one person it is meant for.
We like to sit down and get an ideal of the client’s personal style & needs whenever possible. This informs both the design and fit direction for each person. We work primarily in-person, but we have very successfully created many Custom-Made items long distance. We take the same care and provide the same attention either way, but long-distance takes longer.
Pattern Making and Fitting
A detailed set of measurements are taken and each pattern is hand-drafted to those measurements. Then a cotton “toile” is created. (In NYC we call this a muslin!) The muslin serves several purposes, to get the fit right and to fine tune both the design and the proportion to suit the client’s body type, needs and lifestyle. This way we are able to accommodate harder-to-fit bodies and a full range of sizes.
Depending on the project we will create 1-3 muslins during the course of creation. (Occasionally, a very complex project may require additional fittings.) This detail to the fit and pattern-work is an integral part of the process. We retain each client’s patterns as a tailor does to keep abreast of style changes and personal fit adjustments over time.
A finished leather garment cannot be easily altered, if at all. So this investment of time and effort is vital from the very beginning.
Our leathers are the finest available. The choice of leathers we are able to offer for our custom-made and bespoke projects is almost endless. Whether it is a European lambskin or a 100% domestic born, raised & custom dyed & finished Alligator hide. We source small quantities and unique finishes on a per project basis, ensuring your garment is truly one-of-a-kind. For custom-made leather choices your only restriction is your budget.
We’ve worked in Python, Anaconda, Baby Alligator, Hair-on calfskin, reversible leathers, Laser-cut leathers, printed leathers, washed leathers, woven leathers, metallic and pearlized leathers, and-painted leathers, stretch leathers and so many other incredible leathers. New finishing techniques and ever evolving technologies have really expanded the ways you can use and wear leather. And there are always new and exciting leathers to choose from.
Our standard leather for our made-to-order range is a fine grained Italian lambskin in a glossy semi-aniline finish which comes in a broad range of colors. So if you see a style you like on the website, and would like it in a different color than offered we can usually accommodate special colors at a nominal additional charge. When we provide baseline custom prices on the site, this leather is what we base them on.
Cutting and Construction
Leather, unlike fabric is cut entirely by hand and single-ply. Skins are carefully chosen and matched and inspected for each project. Some projects will even have skins that are custom-finished, dyed or even made specifically for the project. There is little room for mistakes as special leathers cannot ever be recreated. Leather has inherent & natural variations in finish and texture but careful hand-cutting, ensures that any imperfections that could flaw the garments look or wear-ability are avoided.
Interfacings, lining, pockets and other interior construction pieces are also all patterned out and cut. A tailored leather garment often has more interior construction pieces than exterior pieces. The simplest tailored and lined jacket is made up of over 60 cut pieces!
The finishing on each Garment done with the same attention to detail as the rest of the process, whether it’s hand-lacing, inlay work or any of the other details that happen during the construction or the final touches, like buttons, zippers and hardware.
We offer a selection of linings including 100% cotton satin, 100% silk in various weights and finishes and can source other linings to suit your project. Likewise buttons and hardware are all sourced individually for the project. We can offer you a selection of our favorite choices or you may the final selection to us. Buttons are always stitched with back-up buttons so they will not pull through.
We use either RiRi (Swiss) or Lampo (Italian) made zippers in our Custom Made, according to finish required and availability.
We can provide additional finishing choices, (custom-designed and made Sterling Silver Buttons, or custom embroidery-for example) at an additional charge. Special services like these require additional lead time.