This Expose on Fashion’s absurdities really got to me.
GQ asks the question would you rather buy a leather jacket or a car? Is this a celebration of label whores? Conspicuous consumption? Or just plain stupidity…..While Gucci may only make 6-10 of these, there is, as PT Barnum said “a sucker born every minute”
40 hours? These guys are Pikers!
Rough cost breakdown- based on my reality :
45-50 sft of the MOST expensive calfskin (bear in mind this is based on small quantity purchases (under 500′) with US impost and freight coast included – plus a markup – they are buying both in QUANTITY and DOMESTICALLY. $1000.
Zippers (I have to pay retail for the best zippers in the world – everybody wants a different color style zipper so NO quantity discounts for me!) – My minimum cost for zippers on a jacket like this is $150. Yes you read that right – a long zippered jacket can be well over $200 in just zipper cost!
Other hardware: Studs – good studs, good buckles maybe are costing about 75.00-125.00 – but they are NOT- remember? QUANTITY!
40 hours labor – between $1000 & 1400. (based on current rates here for skilled stitchers) (BTW Union Rate – which is Costume Union rate which is highest skilled is MORE- Gucci is NOT paying their stitchers $45.00 per hour!)
Here a plain jacket takes well over 40 hours – since an average of 18-25 additional hours is spent on the on the patterns and fittings.
Cotton Lining – $40.- 45. More for fancy lining. Less for Quantity.
So we are up to $2720 – just cost, figured high and then a markup is added to that to cover rent, marketing real estate, equipment etc. which would bring this jacket to wholesale at $5985.00 or $6000. (& NOT CUSTOM MADE)
So Bergdorf’s Mens buys this – it goes onto their shelves at 18G+
THAT is what you are paying for.
…and based on that math I should raise my prices.
Really, Think about it. I am so glad my clients are smarter than this….
